{"id":291,"date":"2013-04-30T17:05:35","date_gmt":"2013-04-30T17:05:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.nicholls.edu\/magazine\/?p=291"},"modified":"2020-11-18T20:19:07","modified_gmt":"2020-11-18T20:19:07","slug":"a-fresh-take-on-fine-dining","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.nicholls.edu\/magazine\/2013\/04\/30\/a-fresh-take-on-fine-dining\/","title":{"rendered":"A fresh take on fine dining"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"0625-restaurant<\/a>
Chef John Besh has left his signature restaurant, Restaurant August, in the hands of two Nicholls graduates: Executive Chef Michael Gulotta (pictured above) and Executive Sous Chef Jacqueline Blanchard.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Past the deep mahogany-paneled bar, through the opulent dining room lit with crystal chandeliers and into the slightly cramped, sweltering kitchen, Executive Chef Michael Gulotta pan sears a fillet of sheepshead \u2014 a local fish often considered trash.<\/p>\n

Guests might wonder how such an item would make its way into the elegant Restaurant August, Chef John Besh\u2019s flagship restaurant in New Orleans\u2019 Central Business District. But Gulotta\u2019s job is to keep the menu interesting, embedding some surprises.<\/p>\n

The New Orleans native says this particular fish has picked up a bad reputation for good reasons: It\u2019s ugly. Its name is off-putting. And it\u2019s difficult to clean. While studying at the Chef John Folse Culinary Institute, Gulotta remembers his instructors dumping a hundred pounds of sheepshead on a table for students to practice their filleting skills. Years after graduating from Nicholls, he recalled that fish, with its large spine and tough scales.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s tons of sheepshead in the Gulf \u2014 because no one wants to clean it,\u201d he says with a laugh. \u201cIt\u2019s been called a fisherman\u2019s fish because that\u2019s the catch they\u2019d get to take home at night and cook for their families. I thought, \u2018Why not serve it here?\u2019\u201d To diners, the \u201ctrashy\u201d dish certainly does not look or taste low class. The sweet, moist fish sits atop corn custard and succotash with a tomato vinaigrette. Gulotta\u2019s culinary creation is, in fact, indicative of what Restaurant August has become known for \u2014 an ambitious, sophisticated menu designed around local, fresh ingredients and clean, delicate flavors.<\/p>\n

Behind August\u2019s award-winning menus and much-respected fine dining service are two Chef John Folse Culinary graduates: Gulotta (BS \u201903) and his executive sous chef, Jacqueline Blanchard (BS \u201906). Under their management, August has been named as one of Gayot\u2019s 2012 Top 40 U.S. Restaurants \u2014 the only Louisiana restaurant to make the acclaimed list.<\/p>\n

\u201cI am constantly in awe of the creativity and passion displayed by Mike and Jackie,\u201d Besh says. \u201cThey learned so much at Nicholls, but I am most impressed by their true understanding of and their commitment to local ingredients that inform each dish they create.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Determined to work for the James Beard award-winning Besh, Gulotta applied at Restaurant August\u00a0three times before he was hired. Of all the renowned restaurants in New Orleans, what kept him going back to August was Besh\u2019s food philosophy.<\/p>\n

\u201cI didn\u2019t know you could cook veal cheeks and pork cheeks and oxtail, but I looked at his menu, heard what he was doing and thought, \u2018Man, I want to learn to cook like that,\u2019\u201d says the 31-year-old Gulotta. \u201cJohn was using every part of the animal, doing all this great butchery, working with local farmers. All before any of this became popular.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"IMG_6900\"<\/a>
One of Gulotta’s menu creations is a house-cured belly of Gulf Coast lamb (lamb bacon) with a salad of pickled peaches and watermelon from Washington Parish.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

After two 12-hour tryout shifts, Gulotta was hired as a grill cook, but there was one slight problem. In six months, he would be leaving for Europe. After visiting Italy with the art department, Gulotta had worked with culinary faculty to arrange a return trip for a five-month independent study. Besh, a proponent of chefs traveling to Europe, encouraged Gulotta but didn\u2019t make any promises about whether his job would be waiting for him upon his return. In those months leading up to his trip, Gulotta set out to make an impression on Besh. \u201cI think I surprised him in some respects,\u201d Gulotta says. \u201cNicholls really did prepare me. Chef Randy [Cheramie] challenged us to learn as much as we could\u00a0about food history, which is what really impresses the good chefs.\u201d<\/p>\n

By the end of six months, Gulotta had earned Besh\u2019s respect and job security. He traveled to Italy and came back as August\u2019s tournant, or roundsman, working every station in the kitchen. A year later, Besh sent Gulotta to work for his old mentor Chef Karl Joseph Fuchs in the southern black forest of Germany. There, he learned butchery, charcuterie (curing, smoking and preserving\u00a0meat) and German country cooking techniques. His intention always was to return to New Orleans, but Hurricane Katrina sped up the process. Upon hearing of the city\u2019s condition and his mom\u2019s flooded Lakeview home, Gulotta flew back immediately and helped Besh reopen August.<\/p>\n

\u201cI spent my mornings feeding people\u00a0in St. Bernard Parish and nights cooking at August,\u201d Gulotta recalls. \u201cBy that point, John and I were more like brothers than anything else. Soon after the storm, people started asking for foie gras and the good stuff. By Thanksgiving, we were back to a full menu.\u201d<\/p>\n

But it was different. August continued to specialize in European-influenced New Orleans cuisine, but a concerted effort was now made to use ingredients from the Gulf, regional farmlands and local dairies.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen August first started, we were bringing in a lot of European items, fish you can only get from the Mediterranean or northern Atlantic,\u201d says Gulotta, who was made executive chef in 2007. \u201cAfter the storm, we wanted to reinvest in south Louisiana so much so that we started doing almost entirely local \u2014 like the old great French restaurants that only worked with what they had at hand.\u201d<\/p>\n

The restaurant\u2019s signature dishes such as the handmade potato gnocchi and breaded trout are still cornerstones of the menu, but Gulotta regularly adjusts the offerings to be seasonal, unexpected and fun. His creations are inventive \u2014 house-cured Gulf Coast lamb bacon and grilled t\u00eate de cochon (hog\u2019s head) with grilled peaches, for example. But he\u2019s careful to strike a balance between what he likes to cook and what customers like to eat.<\/p>\n

\u201cToo often chefs just want to show off what they know and what they can cook,\u201d he says. \u201cI preach to my staff that even if the guest wants something very simple, we\u2019re going to do it to the best of our ability. If a little kid comes in and wants macaroni and cheese, we\u2019re going to make him the best macaroni and cheese. It\u2019s not about what we think is fun; it\u2019s about what the guests like.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Raised<\/a>
Raised by a single mother who always found time to cook, Gulotta enjoys serving meals to customers and family alike.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

For Gulotta, pleasing the palates of Restaurant August diners is only part of the job. As Besh\u2019s right-hand man, Gulotta takes on prominent roles \u2014 presenting tips for home cooks on The Dr. Oz Show<\/em>, demonstrating cooking techniques at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic, organizing a kickoff event for a Bon App\u00e9tit<\/em> Grub Crawl and catering Will Ferrell\u2019s Bacchus party, to name a few.<\/p>\n

His job sounds glamorous. The celebrity chef culture and reality TV food shows certainly make it seem so. But the work is intense and grueling.<\/p>\n

Gulotta is in charge of every aspect of August, from procuring ingredients to hiring and firing employees to improving the silverware and kitchen equipment. The past few years have been particularly challenging. As Besh opened several more restaurants, Gulotta helped train their sous chefs and lent August\u2019s cooks until the new eateries were on solid footing.<\/p>\n

To keep August running smoothly while he\u2019s away, Gulotta turns to his executive sous chef and fellow Nicholls alum, Jacqueline Blanchard. Hired by Besh three years ago, Blanchard, who had externed at August\u00a0during her sophomore year, was tasked with elevating the restaurant\u2019s lunch service.<\/p>\n

Each day her cooks check in around 7 a.m., just as deliveries of fresh fish, produce and meat begin arriving. The morning becomes a blur of adjusting the menu, itemizing and inventorying ingredients, preparing cooking stations and talking with food purveyors, both locally and across the country. Front-of-the-house staff must taste and familiarize themselves with new menu items, the table linens must be neat, the floors must be clean. The extra attention on lunch has made a difference \u2014 the restaurant\u2019s $20.12 three-course prix fixe lunch has become a hit.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s a lot going on, all within a few hours,\u201d Blanchard says. \u201cWhen I first got here, lunch was sort of a shadow of dinner, and we were understaffed. So it\u2019s been really amazing to see what we\u2019ve been able to do in three years \u2014 inspiring other local restaurants to elevate their lunch standards to emulate ours.\u201d<\/p>\n

Being a management-level chef is a nonstop lifestyle, but Gulotta and Blanchard have been prepping for this since college. In his junior year at Nicholls, Gulotta piled his plate high with responsibilities: president of Tau Kappa Epsilon fraternity, president of the Junior American Culinary Federation campus chapter and member of the opening crew for Fremin\u2019s Restaurant in downtown Thibodaux. On evenings and weekends throughout his college career, Gulotta worked in various restaurants, including Chef John Folse\u2019s Lafitte\u2019s Landing at Bittersweet Plantation in Donaldsonville. Fraternity members assigned him the nickname \u201cAll work and no play make Mike a dull boy.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Executive<\/a>
Executive Sous Chef Jacqueline Blanchard plates lunch orders in August’s kitchen. For most of the 2012 summer, she worked in France, where Chef John Besh assigned her to help lend authenticity to Chateau de Montcaud’s Sunday jazz lunch. Photo by Frank Aymami III.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Blanchard\u2019s freshman year was no easier. In addition to taking 18 hours a semester, she joined Sigma Sigma Sigma sorority and played on the Nicholls soccer team. After tearing her ACL, she decided to focus all of her energy on culinary. It certainly paid off. Blanchard\u2019s first jobs after graduating from Nicholls were at the French Laundry and then Bouchon \u2014 Napa Valley, Calif., restaurants owned by Thomas Keller, largely considered America\u2019s most influential chef.<\/p>\n

\u201cAt the time, the French Laundry was regarded as the best restaurant in the world, and I was able to get a job not knowing anybody there or having any references,\u201d Blanchard says. \u201cThe experience exposed me to a whole other world, and it shaped me fundamentally and professionally.\u201d<\/p>\n

Before returning to Restaurant August in 2009, she worked at Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colo., and at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York.<\/p>\n

Few female chefs make it up the ranks in the restaurant industry, but the petite, 5-foot-3-inch Blanchard had been toughening herself up and sharpening her culinary chops for years before even entering college. Putting up with her three brothers gave her fortitude, and taking notes while watching cooking TV shows as a child helped prepare her for culinary school.<\/p>\n

\u201cAs soon as the show was over, I\u2019d be in the kitchen trying to replicate it,\u201d she recalls. \u201cMy mom would get so mad because I\u2019d make a mess. When she would punish me, she\u2019d punish me from cooking.\u201d<\/p>\n

Blanchard\u2019s and Gulotta\u2019s success at such a young age doesn\u2019t surprise Chef Randy Cheramie the least bit. Cheramie, executive director of the Chef John Folse Culinary Institute, says that only about 5 percent of culinary graduates ever reach a top management position, but that it was a foregone conclusion for these two. He considers Blanchard, Gulotta and Drake Leonards (BS \u201908), a sous chef at Besh\u2019s La Provence, as \u201cthree of the best representatives of true craftsmen chefs we\u2019ve put out there.\u201d \u201cThey were voracious hunters of anything culinary,\u201d Cheramie says. \u201cIf I had an event, they were at my elbow. They just weren\u2019t looking for Friday and a paycheck, and they wouldn\u2019t work for someone whose food philosophy didn\u2019t mesh with theirs.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"????????????????????????????????????????\"<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Practically<\/a>
Practically all of Restaurant August’s ingredients are locally grown. Gulotta and Blanchard have been proponents of fresh, local, seasonal food.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Today, nearly 90 percent of August\u2019s ingredients are local \u2014 including all of the restaurant\u2019s beef, pork, duck, chicken, herbs, butter and berries. And what\u2019s available locally o!en dictates what\u2019s on the menu.<\/p>\n

\u201cLiterally, we just go and look at the trucks showing up with all the local produce and see what\u2019s in season, what\u2019s at the peak of freshness,\u201d Gulotta says. \u201cWe sit down and share a pot of coffee and talk about food. We throw ideas around, cook together, taste them, and sooner or later they\u2019re on the menu.\u201d<\/p>\n

Fresh, local and seasonal have become buzzwords in the American culinary scene. But to Gulotta and Blanchard, it\u2019s more than a trend. It\u2019s who they are at their core. Taking over Gulotta\u2019s backyard are various vegetable plants; kumquat, fig, satsuma and peach trees; a muscadine grape vine; and blackberry and blueberry bushes. On a Sunday summer night, he might put some pork steaks on his backyard grill and make a vinaigrette using his own blueberries and blackberries. Or, before going to work, he might cook chicken in red curry using freshly picked sweet kumquats for his wife, Melissa. Gulotta looks forward to cooking for his twin 1-year-old boys and already buys heirloom vegetables to cook and puree for them. He attributes his style to his great-grandmother, an \u201cold Italian lady who grew up on a farm and always cooked with her own vegetables.\u201d<\/p>\n

Likewise, as soon as Blanchard has a couple of days off, she\u2019s planning a pig roast or crawfish boil in her backyard. Influenced by her grandmother\u2019s farm-inspired cooking, Blanchard, whom Cheramie describes as a \u201chippie at heart,\u201d built her career by seeking out chefs and restaurants specializing in similar cuisine. She even worked a stint at Chez Panisse under Chef Alice Waters, who is considered the \u201cmother of American food\u201d and one of the most prominent organic food movement supporters.<\/p>\n

\u201cGrowing up, I was always tugging at my grandmother\u2019s apron, dying for her to let me chop or peel something,\u201d Blanchard says. \u201cShe lived on a farm, so we were always picking pecans from the backyard trees to make pecan pies, wringing the necks of chickens and plucking their feathers, killing a hog and finding uses for all of its parts. Fresh and local are hip and in vogue today, but to me that\u2019s just how it always was.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"Gulotta's<\/a>
Gulotta’s nickname in college was “All work and no play make Mike a dull boy.” In 2011, he returned to Nicholls as the distinguished visiting chef for the Lafcadio Hearn fundraising dinner.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It\u2019s that intense need to make people happy through their food \u2014 even on their days off \u2014 that sets Gulotta and Blanchard\u00a0apart. It\u2019s what keeps them going through long shifts and demanding schedules. When the stress begins to get to Gulotta, he thinks back to the night when a woman arrived at the restaurant to celebrate a special occasion. August has an open-kitchen policy, so she was invited to peek inside. As she walked through the door, the kitchen staff clapped, as they usually do, but much to their surprise, the woman started crying and walked around to hug each person.<\/p>\n

\u201cShe said, \u2018This meal is to celebrate me being cancer-free. I\u2019m never going to forget this.\u2019 She still comes back each year on the anniversary of that date,\u201d Gulotta says. \u201cThat\u2019s one of the stories I bring up when we\u2019ve had a rough week and I pull my cooks together for a powwow. It makes you feel better about serving food to people every day, wondering whether or not they\u2019re just forgetting about it, going home and going to bed \u2014 or whether they\u2019re remembering the meal for the rest of their life.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u2014 Written by Stephanie Detillier, publications coordinator<\/em><\/p>\n

This article originally appeared in the 2012 issue of\u00a0<\/em>Voil\u00e0!\u00a0magazine. Click\u00a0here<\/a>\u00a0to read the entire issue.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Past the deep mahogany-paneled bar, through the opulent dining room lit with crystal chandeliers and into the slightly cramped, sweltering kitchen, Executive Chef Michael Gulotta pan sears a fillet of sheepshead \u2014 a local fish often considered trash. Guests might wonder how such an item would make its way into the elegant Restaurant August, Chef […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":292,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-291","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"yoast_head":"\nA fresh take on fine dining - The Colonel<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.nicholls.edu\/magazine\/2013\/04\/30\/a-fresh-take-on-fine-dining\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A fresh take on fine dining - The Colonel\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Past the deep mahogany-paneled bar, through the opulent dining room lit with crystal chandeliers and into the slightly cramped, sweltering kitchen, Executive Chef Michael Gulotta pan sears a fillet of sheepshead \u2014 a local fish often considered trash. 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